Once you have your cuts, mark 3.25″ in from the edge of the door on each side. Our boards have slightly rounded edges, so we’ll need to use miter cuts for all of the seams.Īnd since these boards are so thin, we can’t use a miter saw, so we’ll use a hand saw with a miter box to make all of our cuts. Now we’ll use our little trim boards to add some detail. STEP 7: MAKE THE DOORSĬut the doors to size according to the cut list. We’ll use our adjustable shelf pin jig to add holes for the adjustable shelves. The 1×2 will give the shelves a thicker appearance and will help prevent sagging. Use glue and nails to attach the 1×2 to the front of the plywood. Then, we need to cut out a little notch on both ends so that the shelves will fit around the dowels that hold in the faux back. STEP 6: ADD SHELVESįirst, cut your plywood and 1x2s according to the cut list. We attached our dowels with glue and nails. Then leave a hair more than a 1/4″ gap (we want the back to be able to come out easily) and add your second dowel. Once your dowels are cut, glue the back ones 6.5″ from the back of the console. Cut 4 dowels to the same height as the sides – the bottom. So, to hide the TV and TV lift, we’re going to add a faux back.Ĭut the back out of 1/4″ plywood according to the cut list. When you open the cabinet, you don’t want to just see a TV, you want to see a cabinet with some storage. Once the back is attached, attach the second side to both the bottom and the back. ![]() This gap is for a hinge that will allow the top to open and close when the TV is lifted or hidden. If you’re adding a TV lift, the bottom will indent about 1/16″ from the top of the sides. Start by attaching the first side to the bottom. Using glue and 1.25″ screws to assemble the sides, back, and bottom. These will be used to attach to the bottom to the sides. Then add 3 pocket holes to either end of the bottom. Prefer printable plans? Grab your PDF TV lift cabinet plans!Īdd pocket holes to the back of the back based on the image below. Using a circular saw with a track and/or a table saw, cut your sides, bottom, back, and top according to the cut list. If you’re planning to stain your TV console, oak or maple plywood would be a better option. Since we’re planning to paint our tv stand, pre-primed and minimal grain pattern was the way to go. We opted to use pre-primed plywood to build our TV stand because it was less expensive than oak plywood and it had less of a grain. Since its a hardwood, oak will produce a really heavy, solid TV stand that will resist dents and scratches. ![]() If you want something with a strong wood grain that will last for years to come, oak is the way to go. If you want something rustic, common pine is a great (and inexpensive) option. What type of wood you should use for your TV stand is really dependent on the final look you’re going for. The only changes you’ll need to make to the dimensions are to cut the top 1/16″ less wide (and don’t cut in it half), cut the shelves to the full depth of the cabinet, and cut the back to be the same height as the sides. If you just want the DIY credenza, follow these plans, skipping steps 5, 13 and 15. ![]() Now I’m going to show you have to make a DIY mid-century modern credenza with a TV lift, but you can also use these plans if you weren’t wanting to add a TV lift. New to DIY? Download our free 5 Steps to Getting Start with DIY guide! How to Make a DIY Credenza with a Hidden TV Lift
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